How to Survive taking the Ocean Train from Montréal to Halifax in Economy Class
Hey there from somewhere in New Brunswick! I’m writing this from my economy class seat on the Ocean, having survived 21 of the 22 hours on the train ride from Montréal to Halifax. I had done a bit of research on what the experience would be like and couldn’t find much online so with everything fresh in mind, decided to share what I wish I knew about surviving this overnight cross-provincial adventure.
The Ocean is a train line that runs from Montréal to Halifax, stopping in key stations like Sainte-Foy (Quebec), Campellton, Bathurst, Miramichi, Moncton and Halifax. It has been running since 1904, making it the oldest named passenger train line in North America (rest assured the train itself has been updated since).
There are many different class and ticket options for all budgets and comfort levels. I browsed the Tuesday specials every week before booking my ticket, eventually figuring that I was young enough to survive without a bed for a night, so I booked myself an Economy Class Escape ticket, and hoped for the best.
I am surviving, better than expected, and here is how you can too.
Pre-Departure
I highly recommend getting to the station early (I was there 1.5 hours in advance). I probably would have been fine arriving around 1 hour early, although this may have already been too late. One of the main advantages of getting there early is that you can check-in and drop off your baggage, so you have one less thing to lug around up and down stairs and on the train. As someone who is travelling the world with a 20kg suitcase, this was much appreciated, and meant I had one less thing to worry about during the journey.
Once you’ve checked-in your baggage (if you have something to check-in), stand (or sit) close to the gate for your platform. The Ocean is train 14 on VIA Rail’s network, and the departure platform will be identified on the big panel in the centre of the station.
The reason I would locate myself close to the gate is that seating in economy class is unassigned, and if you’re like me and prefer a window, you’ll want to be at the front of the line. In fact, for my journey, people started queuing long before boarding commenced. As it stands, I managed to get the last window seat available, something I was grateful for as the train was full. For those boarding in Sainte-Foy, don’t worry – economy seats are set aside for you, so us Montréal travelers don’t get them all first.
An attendant will help you find your carriage and secure a seat. Once on board the train, you can store your stuff in ample overhead storage (for those backpacking, it’s easily big enough for your bag), or at your feet. An attendant will then place tags on top of your seat identifying your destination which also serves to reserve your seat until you get off.
Overnight
With a 7pm departure from Montréal, the first leg of the journey is overnight.
Overall, the economy seats are comfortable. I had imagined it would be like flying in economy, and I was right. There is a lot more legroom than on a plane, and the seats recline further back, so I felt like I had more space. I could also climb over the passenger beside me if I needed to go to the bathroom or stretch my legs without waking them. However, the headrests do not adjust (and seeing as I am tall, this was quite uncomfortable). There also isn’t an armrest in the middle which I found weird, although I can imagine it’s nice if you’re sitting next to a friend or partner as you have more room.
In the end, we can’t do much about the seat. Instead, the one thing I would bring to have a more comfortable night is an eye mask. The lights in the carriage are on all night and for me, I can’t sleep unless it’s dark. Most people also kept their blinds up so we saw the bright red lights of railway crossings and other towns that we passed through. I doubt I would have had any sleep at all without my eye mask, and I strongly recommend bringing one with you. (A scarf or hoodie would work in a pinch, but an eye mask is worth it.)
Depending on what kind of sleeper you are, I’d also recommend bringing earplugs. I did and was particularly glad I had when the couple behind me started watching a movie without headphones on, and then snored for much of the night. I am a very light sleeper. Having said that, most people fell asleep around the same time (11-ish, not long after Sainte-Foy), and woke up with the daylight (in late May, that was 4:30am) so it was quiet during that period.
If you’re the type of sleeper who likes to be cosy, I would bring a blanket or something to snuggle under. The train is heated, but I was still cold. I had my winter coat with me and that was enough, but if you have access to a blanket, I’d bring it along too.
I would also bring a pillow if you have one. I’m travelling the world with one suitcase so I rolled up my jumper and used that, but I would have brought a pillow if I had access to one. (I’m not a fan of those travel neck pillows – they’ve never done anything for me – but a real pillow would have been nice.). A few people in my carriage had brought pillows with them and they seemed snug and comfortable.
I will caveat all of this with the reminder that the Ocean is not like the highspeed trains in Europe or Asia. This train jiggles a lot, both forwards and backwards and side to side, all the time, speeding up and slowing down, creaking and squeaking, and blowing its horn every few minutes. This means you are unlikely to sleep the whole night through, no matter your ability to sleep upright or curl yourself into positions on the seat and sleep through irregular noises. I would expect to be tired the day I arrive at my destination and plan accordingly.
Life on Board
Once you’ve made it through the night, the fun begins. For most of us, the point of taking the train is for the experience – to see places up close that we would miss if we travelled by air; to allow someone else to take us to the centre of Bathurst, or Moncton, or Halifax, while we sit back and enjoy ourselves and watch the world go by.
We enjoy ourselves, and we eat. In economy class, we don’t have access to the dining carriage. While there is a limited selection of food that can be purchased on board, for a reasonable price, I had packed my own food, and felt better knowing I had my sandwich, muesli bars, apples and Prince biscuits close at hand (the latter is a tradition my Mum started when I was very young taking the TGV from Paris to the South of France every summer, and when I saw them in Montreal I couldn’t resist). Stock up on your favourite travel goodies and snack away. And if you do get caught out, an attendant brings a trolley of food and drinks for purchase (including coffee) every four hours or so.
In terms of water – bring a refillable water bottle. There is a tap with potable water available so you can refill your bottle as many times as you need. I didn’t realise this until I got on board, so lugged 3L of bottled water with me (I drink a lot of water). Save yourself the hassle and just bring a water bottle. You can also buy a bottle of water on board if you forget, and refill throughout the trip.
If you are travelling from Montréal to Halifax, sitting on the left side in the direction of travel means you see the sunset and the sunrise. I live by daylight and love golden hour so this was a happy accident. For those who would rather not be in the sun, I’d suggest sitting on the right side (there are also blinds you can pull down but then you miss out on the stunning landscape, and let’s be honest, that’s the whole point of taking the train!).
While the train is Wi-Fi enabled, come prepared for it only to work in limited areas. On my train, this was the economy common room area – an area set aside with seats separate to the main carriage. Reception is also spotty so don’t rely on being connected. Most people read, watch pre-downloaded movies, work, nap and listen to music. I had done all that, and it was only lunchtime, which is why I decided to write this blog post for you.
Each economy seat has access to powerpoints. Plenty of powerpoints – I counted 4 USB ports and 4 powerpoints accessible from my seat, and the same would apply to all economy seats. Rest assured that your laptop, phone and smartwatch can be fully charged on arrival.
There is also a tray table with a seat pocket, a foot rest, a reading light and coat hooks depending on what you are looking for when it comes to longhaul comfort and organising your space.
No matter the comforts available, there’s no escaping that it is a long train journey. The same advice applies here as for any longhaul travel. Keep your habits: brush your teeth at night, brush them in the morning. Put on sunscreen. Wear sunnies if the glare is too much. Drink all the water, often. Bring a change of clothes – trackies and a hoodie – if that helps you sleep. Bring a spare pair of underwear to change into in the morning (economy class doesn’t have access to a shower).
The other trick is to keep moving. When a train has twenty-two carriages, there is room to move, so get up and go for a walk. Venture from the front to the back of the train (or as far as you can go – the sleeper class was off limits). For economy class passengers, there’s a seating area separate to our assigned seating where we can stretch our legs (or if you’re in an aisle seat, you can enjoy a window and have more space). This is is the same area that has Wi-Fi. When I woke up (or decided that I was done with trying to sleep), I found a corner and did some stretching and bachata warm up moves to loosen up and only got one odd look from a fellow passenger (and this was at 5:00am so they may very well have still been half asleep).
We are have the opportunity to get off the train at some stations. For me, these were: Sainte-Foy, Bathurst and Moncton. My guess is these are where the crew change over so we spend more time here than other places. Passengers can step out while this happens – someone even got a cup of coffee at the station when we arrived in Bathurst, being the first stop after we woke up in the morning. When you arrive at one of these stations, don’t think twice – put on your shoes, grab your coat, and catch some fresh air and vitamin D. Just be sure that you don’t stray too far and miss getting back on the train.
Your fellow passengers are kind, interesting people and look out for each other. You have twenty-two hours to get to know each other – take it. I had an even mix of Canadians and global travelers in my carriage, some going home but most heading to our destinations for the first time, and had fun meeting them and exchanging travel stories.
As a solo female traveler, this connection also meant that I knew someone could watch my bag while I went to the bathroom or explored the other carriages. The train is overall safe, but it is a precaution long ingrained in me, and so it was a relief to know I could rely on my fellow passengers.
Arrival
The train stops and starts all the time. I mean – all the time. This is because passenger rail makes way for freight trains, always. Not only can this be frustrating when you’re trying to fall asleep, but it can also add several hours to your trip if you’re particularly unlucky. I’ve been on two VIA rail trains so far – the first from Québec to Montréal was 30 minutes late on a 3.5hr train ride, and the Ocean is currently running an hour late. When travelling on the Ocean, but by train generally, expect to be delayed. I would avoid booking anything that depends on an on-time arrival, expect that you’ll arrive late, and you’ll have a more enjoyable experience.
Around 15-20 minutes before reaching a station, an attendant will come around and check that everyone with that destination tagged is awake and ready to get off the train (remember how I said our seats were tagged when we first got on? This is why). I imagine this is also because the freight train delays are unpredictable, so it’s hard to know exactly when we’ll arrive at each station (much as we try to keep to the schedule). I guess we’ll see what time I get into Halifax!
So would I do take the Ocean again? I think I would. I’d like to try the other classes to see if the experience is better – for example, does the dining car have good food, and does having a bed in sleeper class help you sleep. I’m not entirely convinced, given how much the train moves and how noisy it is, and it also depends on the passengers around you, so you may be better off accepting a sleepless night and travelling economy. Plus I’m happy to snack on my sandwich, apple, muesli bar and Prince biscuits whenever the mood strikes, so the food isn’t that important.
If I did take the Ocean again, I would love to go in autumn. That speaks for most of the places I’ve visited in Canada thus far, learning the hard way that March and April are not the best times to visit (especially seeing as I love hiking!). In the landscapes we crossed, there was still snow on the ground in May, and most trees had not yet sprouted leaves. I can only imagine the beauty of taking this train at the height of autumn, with the rust and red tinged leaves and stretches of farmland just touched with snow.
I would recommend taking the train at least once in your life – there is no other way to get a sense of how vast and beautiful these provinces are. And I write this, just approaching Halifax and imagining the salty wind – life is for living, and who would want to miss any of it?
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