8 Best Hikes in Canberra that aren’t Mt Ainslie
Hands down, one of my favourite things about living in Canberra is our proximity to nature. It is, after all, the bush capital.
It means we get the best both worlds – the perks of city life interlaced with reserves and national parks, presenting a smorgasbord of hikes catering to every mood and occasion, for every distance and level of effort, flora and fauna, treetop coverage and outlook, for every season and in every location.
From April – October (read: cool and snakeless), I’ll go for a hike pretty much every Sunday. Sometimes I’ll go alone, sometimes with friends, sometimes closer to the city, sometimes further out (be it in ACT or NSW).
Sometimes I’ll tie it in with food afterwards (I’m looking at you Mt Badawang followed by Provisions Deli and Creperie in Braidwood), sometimes I need to see somewhere new (I even keep a bucket list of hikes grouped by duration, difficulty and distance from Canberra so I’m ready to go when the mood strikes), sometimes I want the familiarity of a favourite, and sometimes I’ll hike just because I need to spend time with trees.
All of this exploring means I’ve discovered a fair few hikes around the area. For those of you looking for inspiration (and wanting to venture beyond Mt Ainslie) here are my top hikes for every occasion.
1. Black Mountain
Where: Black Mountain Reserve, ~7 mins drive from Canberra Centre. Multiple start points, easiest is to park close to the ACTEW AGL Sub-Station behind the CSIRO
Distance: 2km, 1 hour return
Best For: When you need to see trees
I live in the centre of Canberra, so I go up Black Mountain whenever I need to spend time in nature but also don’t feel like driving. There’s something about leaving the house with nothing but my shoes and my house keys that is light and liberating, and because I’m one of those people who needs to spend a lot of time with trees, I end up hiking Black Mountain at least once a week.
Black Mountain itself feels like a hidden gem. There are so many trails that you can mix and match depending on your energy on the day, who you are with, and how much time you have. I’m partial to taking the firetrail up, then walking counter clockwise around the summit as it gives you the best views. I’ll often still climb to the summit for the sense of accomplishment, but there isn’t actually a view there (a common misconception!).
While there isn’t a summit view, I recently (read: yesterday) discovered that Black Mountain does have viewing platforms, although they are so disused and overgrown with weeds and trees that only two of the five have a view. The trick to access them is to go to the car park where the summit loop crosses the road, as they’re not actually on the summit.
And if you happen to be exploring during wattle (hayfever) season, Black Mountain is absolutely stunning. It might even be a great way to impress a first or second date!
2. Square Rock
Where: Namadgi National Park, ~50 mins drive from Canberra
Hike Distance: ~9.5km, 2-3 hours return
Best For: A relaxed morning out with friends
This is my go-to hike for when I want a lovely morning out with my friends but don’t want to work too hard. The hike starts at the Square Rock car park, just past Corin Forest. The trail is undulating but mostly flat, making it accessible for most fitness abilities, and takes you through a variety of trees that is regrowing after the 2020 bushfire. It’s also long enough to have great conversations (the ones you only have when you feel like you are far away from the world, and there’s no eye contact required, and endorphins are buzzing) without feeling exhausted at the end.
Square Rock is at the end of the out-and-back trail and overlooks the Orral Valley, making it a nice spot for morning tea (note you might need to hunt around for a sheltered corner as it can get windy). In winter, Square Rock can also get snow which makes the hike absolutely breathtaking, although get there early as you won’t be the only one chasing the winter magic.
For those of you itching for lunch afterward, or who are not ready to return to the city, you can stop for woodfired pizza at Corin Forest. They also have a smattering of picnic tables and a bob sled, and in winter, an outdoor snow play area and indoor fireplace where you can toast giant marshmallows (COVID-19 restrictions permitting).
3. Gibraltar Peak
Where: Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, ~43 mins from Canberra Centre
Hike Distance: ~8.2km, 2-3 hours return
Best For: A relaxed morning with some cardio and a stunning view
I go to Gibraltar Peak when I feel like I need to get far away from Canberra but don’t actually want to go that far, and have plans in the afternoon. I’ve walked this hike both alone and with friends and both have been rewarding.
While there are a few ways to walk it, I start at Dalsetta Car Park, one of the larger carparks in Tidbinbilla and serviced with toilets. It is a steady uphill climb with a few lookouts before reaching the peak, and you can either go back the way you came, or loop back via a firetrail.
Of the hikes on this list, Gibraltar Peak is the one where you are pretty much guaranteed to see wildlife, notably kangaroos, and as such even if you walk it alone, you are not alone. It’s also otherworldly to hike it on a foggy winter morning as you will often find you arrive at the Peak just as the fog clears, or that you hike above the fog, leaving a white expanse beneath you.
Note that this hike is in Tidbinbilla so you will need a pass to access the park after 9am (you can get a day pass or an annual pass, the annual is worth it if you plan on visiting more than three times a year). These can be purchased from the Visitor Centre at the park entrance.
4. Camel’s Hump
Where: Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, ~60 mins from Canberra Centre
Distance: ~12.6km, 4 hours return
Best For: A Winter Wonderland
The first time I hiked Camel’s Back, it had snowed overnight. And not just a little – the trail from Mountain Creek carpark right up to the summit was blanketed in snow, and tree branches hung heavy and white. Having seen it that majestic, the moment there is a hint of snow on the Brindabellas, or a sniff of snow in Canberra, I head up to Camel’s Hump.
The hike starts from Mountain Creek carpark, deep in Tidbinbilla. Note there are no toilets there (I suggest stopping at Dalsetta on the way). The hike is a steady uphill climb on a firetrail, with the hardest bit being in the first kilometre. Just take it slow, enjoy the serenity, relish the drip of snow melting off the trees, have a snowball fight, and you’ll be there before you know it.
The very last bit of the hike is a steep, narrow trail on exposed rocks. Depending on your shoes and comfort level, as well as how fresh the snow is, you might not reach the summit every time as it can be a bit slippery. The great news is that the best views aren’t actually from the summit, but rather a bit before where the firetrail reaches the ridgeline, granting views over the Brindabellas and back out to Canberra.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can follow the firetrail on to Tidbinbilla Peak, and either come back the way you came or loop back around to the carpark. I suggest getting there before 9am if it has been snowing heavily as you won’t be the only one who has read this post, and the snow will still be fresh. I would also recommend hiking boots (or even snow boots) to keep your feet warm and dry, and retain grip on melting snow.
You can, of course, hike it without snow, but be aware that the hike is quite exposed so can be hot in summer.
Like with Gibraltar Peak, this hike is in Tidbinbilla, so you’ll need a pass to access the park.
5. Booroomba Rocks
Where: Namadgi National Park, ~50 mins drive from Canberra Centre
Distance: ~11.6km, 3 hours return
Best For: When you want to show off how great Canberra hikes can be
If I have visitors coming to Canberra and they like exploring, this is the hike I take them on. It can be completed in a morning, or extended if desired, and it is quite accessible, but also long, inviting conversation, and there is a decent stair climb towards the end for those who like to get their heart pumping. The rocks themselves are a long expanse of boulders that fringe a clifftop and look out over the Namadgi National Park, and I am filled with awe and humility every time I go.
The walk can be as short as 4km return if you have access to a 4WD, as there is a dirt track that takes you to the base of the uphill climb. Otherwise, you can park at Honeysuckle Creek Campground and follow the undulating trail that weaves through a forest regrowing after the 2020 bushfires, ultimately reaching the Booroomba Rocks carpark. With the regrowth, if you go on one of those crisp winter days, you will see much of the ground bejewelled with frost, and frozen puddles and ponds, turning the park into an eerie fairyland.
Honeysuckle campground is serviced by toilets, and also has a landmark for the honeysuckle tracking station that received the images of Neil Armstrong and Buzz Lightyear landing on the moon.
6. Mt Domain
Where: Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, ~55 mins drive from Canberra Centre
Distance: ~12.3km, 4-5 hours return
Best For: When you want to go on an adventure
This trail was so much fun to hike. It’s a bit off the beaten path, starting from a small carpark deep inside Tidbinbilla, and takes you on journey through the Tidbinbilla ranges. The trail begins with a solid warm up on a firetrail that takes you to Fisherman’s Gap (around 4km) and grants views on the other side of the mountain.
From Fisherman’s Gap, the fun really begins. Turning to your right, you follow a narrow trail marked with bright pink tape, weaving through ferns, up narrow paths beneath heavyset trees, through wattle and gums, traversing a wispy, ghostlike forest and lastly climbing over exposed rocks to reach the summit. It’s one of those hikes where you know how quickly you’re ascending because of how quickly the vegetation changes. There are also a number of viewpoints along the way, my favourite being a rocky outcrop that looks back out to Canberra, part of the last section to the summit (the view from the summit itself is somewhat obscured by trees).
Of all the hikes on this list, this is the one I wouldn’t recommend doing alone unless you’re quite an experienced hiker. I’d go with a group of friends and stick together, especially on the way down as we managed to lose the trail in the ghostlike forest, and I also wouldn’t recommend trying it if it’s been snowing recently (although the walk to Fisherman’s Gap would still be doable). Hiking Mt Domain is a full day out, and you feel very accomplished by the end of it (accomplished enough to stop back in the city for well-earned Grease Monkeys burger and/or Messina gelato).
Like with Gibraltar Peak, this hike is in Tidbinbilla, so you’ll need a pass to access the park. There are also no toilets near the hike so I suggest stopping at Dalsetta on the way up.
7. Mt Tennent
Where: Namadgi National Park, ~45 mins from Canberra Centre
Distance: ~14km, 3-4 hours return
Best For: When you want a good workout
Mt Tennent is a classic for a reason. Between the everchanging flora, the stairs, and views for most of the trail, the hike is at once stunning and a tough workout. There is also the option to incorporate a loop, as there is both a trail and firetrail to reach the summit. I’ve done both although I prefer taking the firetrail up as I like walking on a wider trail.
This is one of those hikes that I would only hike with active friends as it is quite strenuous, especially on a hot day as there is little shade. It does make for a great morning out, depending on how much time you spend at the summit. It’s also the start (or end) of the Australian Alps Walking Track, so you can mark that portion as complete.
Parking is at the Namadgi Visitor’s Centre, which also has toilets.
8. Centenary Trail
Where: Around Canberra, various start points
Distance: 145km
Best For: When you want to get to know Canberra
This list would be incomplete without including the Centenary Trail. This trail is a spectacular loop around Canberra, going from the back of Gungahlin, through the Arboretum, down to Pine Island and Tuggeranong, then back up through the back of Parliament House, the War Memorial, and the connecting reserves. It’s a combination of paved paths, firetrails and trails, mostly undulating, and upon completion you will have an appreciation for how widespread Canberra is.
While the trail is officially broken into seven stages, I completed the Centenary Trail as a combination of out-and-back hikes and point-to-points over a few months. My favourite sections of the trail include the portion from Hall to Amaroo (including One Tree Hill), Isaac’s Ridge, the Arboretum, and the portion behind Fisher that includes Mt Arawang. The latter was one of those rare hikes where you can enjoy views for the entire walk, and I went back a few times after finishing the Centenary Trail..
If you do undertake the Centenary Trail, I highly recommend printing out a copy of the map and highlighting the segments as you complete them. And for those of you who would rather not walk – in true Canberra fashion, the trail can also be completed by mountain bike.
Now put on your hiking shoes and get outside!
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